Front end rebuild.
List of POSSIBLE parts you
will need;
Four upper
control arm bushings,
Two upper
control arm ball joints,
Four lower
control arm bushings,
Two lower
control arm ball joints,
Sway bar
links,
Sway Bar
Bushings,
Inner
and Outer Tie Rod ends,
Adjusting sleeves,
Idler
Arm,
Pitman
Arm,
Drag
Link,
Cotter
pins,
Wheel
bearings and races,
Wheel
bearing seals,
Wheel
bearing grease,
Copper
crush washers
Although this is not a
difficult job it is long and can be dangerous. You need to use your head
and now is not the time to break out the six-pack. This can be done in a
weekend. Do not hurry though.
The procedure I am laying out
below assumes you still have the weight of the front clip and engine in
the car. If not, it will not work because when you lift the lower
control arms with the jack you will not compress the springs.
The night before you start,
soak up the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts, lower control arm
pivot bolts, and upper control arm to frame retaining nuts with a good
penetrating oil.
Prepare your garage, sweep
the floor and clear out the area so you have room to work.
Jack the car up by the frame
so the front wheels are hanging in the air. Use jack stands; do not
leave the car on the jack. I actually like to use large wood blocks.
Remove the front wheels
Remove the front shocks. If
you are not going to reuse the shocks the easiest way is to put a deep
well socket on the upper stem and nut, put a long extension or several
extensions on the socket and bend the nut and stem back and forward. The
stem will snap off on the third of fourth bend. (Of course the correct
way is to put an open-end wrench on the end of the stem to keep the
shock absorber upper stem from turning and then remove the upper
stem-retaining nut, but that is easier said then done).
Remove the lower shock
mounting bolts and discard the shock. If you’re using a new shock and it
came with new bolts (most good shocks do) discard the mounting bolts.
Remove stabilizer link
bolts.
Remove the brakes
On
disk brakes,
Remove the caliper, you can hang it with a coat hanger, but I like to
remove them. Loosen the banjo nut that holds the brake line to the
caliper. I find that if you take an old tire valve stem and push it up
into the hole on the brake line mounting block it makes a great seal and
you will not have as much trouble bleeding the brakes, it also stops
brake fluid from leaking on your floor or the drain pan from getting
kicked over. If you remove the banjo bolt you will need new copper crush
washers, so get them now.
Remove the rotor. Take the dust cover/hub grease cap off the rotor,
remove the cotter pin and discard, do not reuse.
Remove the spindle nut and washer. Put your thumb over the end of the
spindle, do not let the bearings fall and hit the ground. The rotor, hub
assemble, bearings and races can now be removed as a whole. Hint. Put
the spindle nut and washer on top of the outer bearing and reinstall the
dust cover/hub grease cap on the rotor. This will keep all the parts
together so you will be able to find them later when you need them.
While you have this assemble off the car you should consider repacking
the bearings. Be sure to inspect for any burnt or damaged races and
bearings. Replace as needed.
Remove the three bolts that secure the rotor dust cover to the spindle,
the two lower bolts also secure the steering knuckle to the spindle.
Remove the dust shield.
You
now have clear, and unobstructed access to both the upper and lower ball
joints.
On drum brakes,
Remove the drum. Take the dust cover/hub grease cap off the drum, remove
the cotter pin and discard, do not reuse.
Use
a brake adjusting spoon and back the brake shoes all the way off.
Remove the spindle nut and washer. Put your thumb over the end of the
spindle, do not let the bearings fall and hit the ground. The drum, hub
assemble bearing and races can now be removed as a whole. Hint. Put the
spindle nut and washer on top of the outer bearing and reinstall the
dust cover/hub grease cap on the rotor. This will keep all the parts
together so you will be able to find them later when you need them.
While you have this assemble off the car you should consider repacking
the bearings. Be sure to inspect for any burnt or damaged races and
bearings. Replace as needed.
Personally I like to remove the entire brake assemble to provide room to
work.
However, you can remove the brake shoes from the backing plate. Remove
the brake anchor pin and two bolts securing the brake backing plate and
steering arm to the steering knuckle. Withdraw the steering arm and
brake backing plate from the steering knuckle. Now wire the backing
plate and wheel cylinder to the frame in an out of the way place.
Now there are many different
ways of proceeding from this point. This is just the way I do it.
Place a jack under the lower
control arm and jack the arm up until the frame just starts to come off
your jack stands. Lower it back down until it is sitting on the stands.
Remove the upper and lower ball joint stud cotter pins. Loosen the upper
and lower ball joint stud nuts. I like to take them all the way off and
then screw them back on five full turns.
Now lower the jack so it is
just not touching the lower control arm.
Now the tricky part. Be
careful and think each step through.
Use a pickle fork to separate
the upper and lower ball joint studs from the spindle. You will have the
force of the spring helping you do this. As the nuts are still on the
studs the spring will not be released.
Install a spring compressor
(most good parts stores have a loan program where you can barrow or rent
a GOOD spring compressor, do not use a Harbor Freight tool!). The best
style I have found is the one that goes up inside the coil springs. Put
a chain around the spring for safety.
Compress the spring with the
spring compressor, to help in this take your floor jack and jack up the
lower control arm, as far out on the arm as possible, until the car just
starts to lift off the jack stands.
Once again be careful and
think these steps through. There is a LOT of stored energy in the
spring.
Now you have removed the
tension on the upper and lower ball joint studs bolts. Remove them. With
the spring now compressed, SLOWLY lower the lower control arm with the
jack enough to remove the spindle and set it aside. Now continue to
lower the lower control arm with the jack. Keep an eye on the jack
alignment as you lower the control arm. You can always jack the jack
back up put the upper and lower ball joint studs bolts back on and
reposition the jack. At some point, if you have the spring compressed
enough; the lower control arm will not be under tension from the spring.
Remove the spring and loosen and remove the spring compressor from the
spring. The dangerous part is over.
Remove the two lower control
arm pivot bolts (if you soaked them overnight with penetrating oil this
will be easier), and remove the lower control arm.
Count and record the location
and number of shims between the upper control arms and the frame. Remove
the NUTS, not the bolts that retain the upper control arms to the frame.
The nuts are spindled onto the frame not threaded. If you wish you can
press them out. Remove the upper control arms.
There are all kinds of
methods to remove the bushings. Best bet is to take it to a garage and
have it done. Make sure they are going PRESS them out not use an air
chisel to remove them.
If you wish I will try to put
together something on removing the bushings and ball joints.
This is my first attempt at
writing this procedure. If anyone sees an error or missed step Please
say so.
I hope this helps.
