Ok, here is an update on the progress on the Firebird. Engine dyno work is done. 

Now the work on the drive train starts 

I dropped the transmission off at Competition Transmission & Converters, LLC, 747 Erie Ave.,
North Tonawanda, NY 14120, 716-692-1901 http://www.competitiontransmission.com/  

This is after trying to lick it up by myself and &(^$^%#&%*^ up my back and spent all of this morning laying flat on my back in the living room.

 I went up there with a shopping list: Go through it, Install a transmission brake, Set it up for HP and Torque curves provided, This car is used strictly for drag racing, is not licensed and will never be driven on the road, Late last year the car weighed 3600 pounds, I have put it on a diet and most likely removed 200 pounds, 26 inch tall rear slicks, Has rear latter bars, “c” clip eliminator kit, rear end is an original 12 bolt, current gears are 3:73, but I have a set of 4:11, tell me what should be in the car (if necessary I will purchase the correct set).

 Once again I learned just how much I do not know:

 I had a long talk with Carl the owner and here are the points I came away with, and now understand because Steve Walczal explained it to me a second time.

 1)      In order to install a transbrake you have to install a reverse valve body on the transmission. This means that instead of the gear selection being Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, 3^rd, 2^nd, 1^st. the order is as follows,   Park, Reverse, Neutral, 1^st, 2^nd, 3^rd. That means
       a)      The transmission must be shifted manually. I had hoped to avoid this as my thoughts were by putting the transmission in drive and letting the transmission do the shifting the car would be more consistent for bracket racing.
       b)      The shifter I now have must be replaced.
       c)      Allowing the transmission to shift by itself with the HP and Tr the car now makes may not be the most consistent way to drive. If the tires spin on launch the transmission might shift to soon.

2)      Location of the button for the transbrake is important.
a)       You do not want to hit the button by accident while driving around in the pits.
b)      The suggestion is to never drive around in first gear as my understanding is it only works in first gear, more research needed.
c)      My thinking at the moment is to put the button under my left thump on the steering wheel.

3)      The advice I have received to date is the stock components would most likely handle the transbrake. Carl thinks they might, but;
a)      As my car already has “C” clip eliminators, it might already have upgraded axles. I need to check.
b)      A differential support cover would greatly increase the life expectancy of the posi unit.
c)      I should remove the posi unity and install a spool
d)      U-Joint Girdle (I already have that)

4)      New rules for the lunch
a)      Burn out is done in 2^nd gear, Get someone to verify you are in the water box and do a QUICK spin to get the whole tire wet (don’t spin to much so that you do not get water in the wheel well)
b)      Do a “short rolling burnout” to the line. No need for long smoky burnout.
c)      Stage, set transbrake, engine limiter set at 3,500, lunch, engine “flashes” past stall speed, hard lunch

5)      So the work to be do will be a rebuild of the TH350 with a Transmission Brake, a TH350 Direct Drum with 36 Element Sprag Upgrade, , and an 8 inch turbo Splint aluminum Stator Torque Converter (4000 RPM Stall)